Spicy Goulash
Budapest was a total fluke. I woke up in Vienna, the day before I was expecting to leave, and thought, "Hmm, I wonder what Budapest is like." So perhaps it is no surprise that, like all unexpected adventures on this trip, Hungary and Budapest have generated some of the most unusual of stories.
My arrival in Budapest was a mix of good and bad. I was initially introduced to what one might consider the country's more shady elements in that, during the course of a bus ride from the Keleti train station to my hostel, I managed to have one of my credit cards and my only ATM card disappear. I have no idea how this happened, especially since they were both zipped into my pants pocket, but, when I arrived at my hostel, they were gone. A quick call to USAA put a stop to any unexpected charges (and, from what my bank reports, nothing has been attempted since), but I was left with only the Euros, Swiss Francs, US Dollars and 20,000 Hungarian Forint (around $93) I had in my money belt (and a credit card which, after a few international phone calls, has become an ATM card). But, this being Eastern Europe, $93 gets you pretty far.
My other, and much more enjoyable, introduction to Budapest came in the form of Gergö (essentially "Gregory" but pronounced GER-goo), a chemical engineer, baritone-bass in an English choir and amature jazz pianists I met on the same fateful bus. He and I got to chatting and, after disembarking at the same stop, he gave me his mobile number and asked that I call him that evening so that "we can drink beer." Initially I was hesitant to call, concerned that he might have been the credit card thief and nervous after reading too many stories of Americans being ripped off at bars when English-speaking women sweet talk them into buying $1000 rounds of drinks, but, in the spirit of "Always Say Yes," I decided to dial away. We connected (a good sign) and agreed to meet at the bus stop. When I arrived, Gergo was with his long-time girlfriend, Annika, a language instruction book producer. It appeared that they were eager to practice their English and have me taste some of the local alcohol. And, with that, how could I say no? So, over the next three hours, we became fast friends. I learned the history of Hungary, the benefits and difficulties of the old communist system, the problems of their current government, the Hungarian perception of Americans, the structure of the educational system and the proper way to drink the tasty-yet-potent palinka, both in its apricot and kosher varieties. After two rounds, they were exhausted and I was tipsy, but my new friends were insistant that they walk me to my hostel. Once there, I received a written list of the sights, baths, streets and restaurants that "you must visit if you want to see the real Budapest." Guidebooks be damned; I'm going with the locals!
A quick word about the hostel (or Backpacker's Guesthouse, as it is officially called): think Hade-Ashbury-meets-Eastern-Europe with a serious dose of incense, Buena Vista Social Club and Indian religious figures. My room was designed around the Buddhist god Ganesha. The only double room in the place was called "The Love Shack." I was the first person ever (in their 15 year history) to pay with a credit card. Easily the coolest hostel I have stayed in yet!
Budapest and I are on great terms! The city (or, actually, two cities joined into one) is on my list of the best places I've visited. And it makes sense. Budapest combines both "old world" East and cosmopolitan West in exciting ways. You can stand in an acient castle overlooking the city, staying at the domed, very British Parliment and see a giant TV tower in the distance. My hostel, in a very residential (and, as you could probably guess, funky) neighborhood, was just blocks away from Gergö's flat, which comes in the form of an old, Communist-era housing block. The underground Metro sprawls (and one of its lines is the oldest in the world) and reaches perhaps the greatests of all of Budapest's sights: the Turkish baths. Hungary, you see, was controlled by the Turks, and it appears that the Turks felt it would be most beneficial to exploit the mineral springs beneath Budapest's rocky lands. So, about a dozen baths were created, all of which survive today. I went to one, recommended by Gergö and Annika (partially because it is located in the park where they had their first date) and, after two hours of soaking, sweating in the saunas (where I also burned my feet!), showering and swimming laps, I decided that this would need to become a daily ritual. And it did. Heck, at onlu $6 a pop, how can you go wrong?
Budapest is also a fascinating city outside of its history, contrasts and amazing baths. The Danube flows right through (separating Buda from Pest) and forces the citizens to make good use of their water-fed green spaces. I managed my way onto an island (Margarita Island), recommended, of course, by my friends, where, among other delights, I was met by a fountain that dances to classical music, ancient ruins filled with kids climbing around on them, untouched bike trails, baths (of course) amd, perhaps most importantly, only one modern building. Budapest has managed to balance its nature with its growing turn towards consumerism and Westernization. The city is super-modern (the prevelence of internet cafes and discount stores is enough to convince anyone!), and, right now, has just the right mix of charm and efficiency to make it liveable. You can haggle in the Grand Market for your veggies, then turn the corner and wind up with some of the best public transit I've encountered. If you can believe it, I was navigating almost entirely without a map by my second day.
And Hungarians (excepting those that took my cards) are amazing people! I have never been offered help so many times! I found myself a few times in lunch counters where I was the only English speaker and, believe it or not, trying to decipher my order became a communal effort, with everyone pitching in their English to figure me out. People in the street, perhaps eager to practice their English, would lead me where I was going, chatting me up along the way. That is something I have experienced nowhere else.
So, having seen the churches, the shopping malls, the open-air markets, the castles, the baths, the Metro, the parks, the backstreets, the mainstreets, the people, the tourist traps, the local wine shops and the traditional eateries (check out Time Out Corner, their goulash is cheap and amazing), I think I can honestly say that my rocky start was not the true face of Budapest. I am in love and I am coming back.
My arrival in Budapest was a mix of good and bad. I was initially introduced to what one might consider the country's more shady elements in that, during the course of a bus ride from the Keleti train station to my hostel, I managed to have one of my credit cards and my only ATM card disappear. I have no idea how this happened, especially since they were both zipped into my pants pocket, but, when I arrived at my hostel, they were gone. A quick call to USAA put a stop to any unexpected charges (and, from what my bank reports, nothing has been attempted since), but I was left with only the Euros, Swiss Francs, US Dollars and 20,000 Hungarian Forint (around $93) I had in my money belt (and a credit card which, after a few international phone calls, has become an ATM card). But, this being Eastern Europe, $93 gets you pretty far.
My other, and much more enjoyable, introduction to Budapest came in the form of Gergö (essentially "Gregory" but pronounced GER-goo), a chemical engineer, baritone-bass in an English choir and amature jazz pianists I met on the same fateful bus. He and I got to chatting and, after disembarking at the same stop, he gave me his mobile number and asked that I call him that evening so that "we can drink beer." Initially I was hesitant to call, concerned that he might have been the credit card thief and nervous after reading too many stories of Americans being ripped off at bars when English-speaking women sweet talk them into buying $1000 rounds of drinks, but, in the spirit of "Always Say Yes," I decided to dial away. We connected (a good sign) and agreed to meet at the bus stop. When I arrived, Gergo was with his long-time girlfriend, Annika, a language instruction book producer. It appeared that they were eager to practice their English and have me taste some of the local alcohol. And, with that, how could I say no? So, over the next three hours, we became fast friends. I learned the history of Hungary, the benefits and difficulties of the old communist system, the problems of their current government, the Hungarian perception of Americans, the structure of the educational system and the proper way to drink the tasty-yet-potent palinka, both in its apricot and kosher varieties. After two rounds, they were exhausted and I was tipsy, but my new friends were insistant that they walk me to my hostel. Once there, I received a written list of the sights, baths, streets and restaurants that "you must visit if you want to see the real Budapest." Guidebooks be damned; I'm going with the locals!
A quick word about the hostel (or Backpacker's Guesthouse, as it is officially called): think Hade-Ashbury-meets-Eastern-Europe with a serious dose of incense, Buena Vista Social Club and Indian religious figures. My room was designed around the Buddhist god Ganesha. The only double room in the place was called "The Love Shack." I was the first person ever (in their 15 year history) to pay with a credit card. Easily the coolest hostel I have stayed in yet!
Budapest and I are on great terms! The city (or, actually, two cities joined into one) is on my list of the best places I've visited. And it makes sense. Budapest combines both "old world" East and cosmopolitan West in exciting ways. You can stand in an acient castle overlooking the city, staying at the domed, very British Parliment and see a giant TV tower in the distance. My hostel, in a very residential (and, as you could probably guess, funky) neighborhood, was just blocks away from Gergö's flat, which comes in the form of an old, Communist-era housing block. The underground Metro sprawls (and one of its lines is the oldest in the world) and reaches perhaps the greatests of all of Budapest's sights: the Turkish baths. Hungary, you see, was controlled by the Turks, and it appears that the Turks felt it would be most beneficial to exploit the mineral springs beneath Budapest's rocky lands. So, about a dozen baths were created, all of which survive today. I went to one, recommended by Gergö and Annika (partially because it is located in the park where they had their first date) and, after two hours of soaking, sweating in the saunas (where I also burned my feet!), showering and swimming laps, I decided that this would need to become a daily ritual. And it did. Heck, at onlu $6 a pop, how can you go wrong?
Budapest is also a fascinating city outside of its history, contrasts and amazing baths. The Danube flows right through (separating Buda from Pest) and forces the citizens to make good use of their water-fed green spaces. I managed my way onto an island (Margarita Island), recommended, of course, by my friends, where, among other delights, I was met by a fountain that dances to classical music, ancient ruins filled with kids climbing around on them, untouched bike trails, baths (of course) amd, perhaps most importantly, only one modern building. Budapest has managed to balance its nature with its growing turn towards consumerism and Westernization. The city is super-modern (the prevelence of internet cafes and discount stores is enough to convince anyone!), and, right now, has just the right mix of charm and efficiency to make it liveable. You can haggle in the Grand Market for your veggies, then turn the corner and wind up with some of the best public transit I've encountered. If you can believe it, I was navigating almost entirely without a map by my second day.
And Hungarians (excepting those that took my cards) are amazing people! I have never been offered help so many times! I found myself a few times in lunch counters where I was the only English speaker and, believe it or not, trying to decipher my order became a communal effort, with everyone pitching in their English to figure me out. People in the street, perhaps eager to practice their English, would lead me where I was going, chatting me up along the way. That is something I have experienced nowhere else.
So, having seen the churches, the shopping malls, the open-air markets, the castles, the baths, the Metro, the parks, the backstreets, the mainstreets, the people, the tourist traps, the local wine shops and the traditional eateries (check out Time Out Corner, their goulash is cheap and amazing), I think I can honestly say that my rocky start was not the true face of Budapest. I am in love and I am coming back.
posted by Ethan at 2:19 PM
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